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In earlier
times, if less so today, these very waterways were the
staring point for the transport of South Indian spices,
which eventually found their way to the distant shores of
Europe and beyond. Formed by the 40- odd rivers that flow
down to the Arabian Sea form the Cardamom Hills in the
Western Ghats, this network of rivers, canals, lakes and
estuaries compromises one of India’s most beautiful areas a
rural, river in expanse of verdant coconut groves and rice
paddies. In Malayalam, the language of Kerala, the
backwaters are known as Kuttanad, "the land of the short
people," a reference, perhaps, to the face that the farmers
seen working here are often knee-deep in paddy fields,
Kerala’s famous backwaters comprise of vast lakes and a
system of narrow canals and waterways linking them to one
another. Not so long ago, these waterways served as the
backbone of Kerala’s transportation. And Kumarakom is the
ideal place to experience the backwaters. Coconut Lagoon has
rightly carved its place among the top 10 heritage resorts
of the world. The resort is on a small island and can be
reached only by boat. The accommodation consists of
individual cottages built in the traditional Kerala style,
relying heavily on wood and some with private pools. The
bathrooms are open to the sky and the restaurant specializes
in Kerala cuisine peculiar to the region. Activities here
are just lazing in the swimming pool with Jacuzzi, walks in
the nearby coconut groves or paddy fields, sunset cruises
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Heritage Mansion and Heritage Bungalows. The former has
two stories, the upstairs bedroom gallery offering
particularly magnificent views of Lake Vembanad. The latter
are more compact, single – level cottages. Both are
furnished in Aiyny and Jack Woods, and retain all the charm
of original family homes, with thick, solid doors, intricate
window carvings, and terra cotta tile floors. Structurally
necessary alterations have been carried out with consummate
discretion, i.e., in keeping with the style and décor of the
era, and great attention has been paid to very detail.
The lamp stands in each Tharavadu, for example, having been
carved from old wooden hinges. Traditionally, of course,
Keralites bathed in the rivers – in rural areas many people
still do – but Coconut Lagoon’s cottages feature ultramodern
bathrooms, each located in an inner courtyard boasting its
own banana (or coconut) tree, so you can shower al fresco
under a starlit sky in complete and utter privacy.
Recreation: The Cashew
Shaped pool, slightly elevated to give a commanding view is
popular including the honeymoon couples who swim there in
the early evening to the sounds of Indian classical music
drifting across from the Garden Café. For those who prefer
not to venture beyond the bounds of the resort itself, there
are plenty of things to do. Simple bamboo fishing poles are
available, too, and though the restaurant offers many fine
seafood dishes on its ever-varied lunch and dinner menus,
the chef nonetheless promises to cook any fish an angler
catches from the lagoon. Be warned, however, that no prizes
are given for catching a monster from the fish farm within
the confines of the hotel, though no punishment is meted out
for doing so, either.
Backwater Cruises: A
relaxing boat trip through the maze of canals adjacent to
Coconut Lagoon is a fascinating experience, and a delightful
way to get a closer look at life in the backwaters. One or
two hour trips can be arranged in any one of the resort’s
several motor launches, ask the chef for a packed lunch and
lose yourself on the backwaters for a whole day, if you
wish.
Bird Sanctuary: On the
southern bank of the Kavanar River, immediately opposite
Coconut Lagoon, is a small bird sanctuary, where numerous
species of birds, several varieties of Herons roost.
Including Darters, Bitterns, Brahminy kites, Marsh Harriers,
Teals, and several varieties of Herons roost. Though many of
the same birds also frequent the resort’s premises serious
bird watchers should carry their binoculars at all times,
even to restaurant- it may be worthwhile to visit the
preserve as well. A five-minute boat ride (which the
Reception Desk can arrange), followed by a short stroll on
the other side, will get you there. Walk along the stream
until you come to a small log bridge, across it and, presto,
you’re in the sanctuary. A 6:00 am start is best.
Sunset Cruise: You can
watch the sun set from a hammock near your bungalow or,
better yet, from the middle of Lake Vembanad, on board
Coconut Lagoon’s beautifully restored Kettuvallam, expressly
for this purpose. There can be few better ways to adjust to
the pace of backwater life than to spend the warning hours
of the afternoon just watching the sun go down. You can do
this from a hummock near your bungalow, better yet, from the
middle of Lake Vembanad, on board Coconut Lagoon’s
beautifully restored Kettuvallam, which has been converted
from a transport vessel into a cruise boat expressly for
this purpose. Punted by two boatman equipped with long
bamboo poles, the boat floats silently out across the waters
as flocks of Garganey teals and other migratory and resident
birds return to their lakeside roosts in such thick
formations they cloud the evening sky. Drinks are served on
board, and an extraordinary stillness descends as the sun, a
vivid orange orb in its final few moments, slips rapidly
below the horizon.
A relaxing boat trip through the maze of canals adjacent to
Coconut Lagoon is a fascinating experience, and a delightful
way to get a closer look at life in the backwater.
One-or-two-hour trips can be arranged in any one of the
resort’s several motor launches., or for the more
adventurous, the hotel has two local-style canoes, or vallam,
which guests can take out on their own. Ask the chef for a
packed lunch and lose yourself on the backwaters for a whole
day, if you wish. Or you can make a foray into Lake Vembanad,
where the local village men who make a livelihood from the
lake bob about in its chest-deep waters, as if performing
some strange dance. In fact, they’re trapping freshwater
prawns, creating ridges in the mud with their feet to do so,
and collecting mussel shells from the bottom to be processed
as lime
These include- the Freshwater Swimming Pool and
Jacuzzi Spa on the lakes edge, Body Zone – the ultimate
gymnasium, Vedasparsh – the Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Clinic,
Blue Label, the aqua sports centre where you can tame the
afternoon waves on the lake on a water scooter or speed
boat, the Clock Tower where you can view stunning sunsets
while you sip your sundowner or have an early dinner and
stay overnight afloat on board “Arayannam”- the twin bedroom
luxury Kettuvallam or traditional houseboat.
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